{"id":11885,"date":"2011-11-12T16:33:39","date_gmt":"2011-11-12T21:33:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.gosokrinpoche.com\/?p=11885"},"modified":"2025-01-21T21:08:38","modified_gmt":"2025-01-22T02:08:38","slug":"kham-golok-monastery-pilgrimage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.gosokrinpoche.com\/bo\/kham-golok-monastery-pilgrimage\/","title":{"rendered":"\u5eb7\u679c\u6d1b\u5bfa\u671d\u8056 || Kham Golok Monastery Pilgrimage"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\n\t\t\t\t\t目錄<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
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    今年八月去藏地朝聖，康果洛寺是此行的重要朝拜地點。去的途中走走停停，半途時還在公路旁的草地上小憩一會兒，享受了一頓高原下午茶，比起生活在大城市忙忙碌碌的人們，藏人還是更喜歡慢節奏的生活，也許是我的習性使然，在慢節奏的生活氣氛中有些著急，希望能早一刻見到康果洛寺，直到六點多，終於來到了康果洛寺門前！<\/div>
     <\/div>

    康果洛寺歷史<\/h3>
    康果洛寺位於我國四川省甘孜州雅江縣域內的西俄洛鄉。四周群山環繞，林草秀美，故名“果洛”。自古這裏就是一個被眾多修行者所選擇的靜修處，根據歷代典籍記載和口耳相傳，遠在西元十一世紀末期，這裏就有是由藏傅佛教噶舉<\/span>派的禪修大師、大成就者<\/span>珠塔藩然巴瓦所建立的三間寺院<\/span>以及周圍星羅密佈著眾多的閉關房，而這就是康果洛寺的前身。據載，第一世大寶法王<\/span>——杜松虔巴<\/span>，也曾在此處長期駐錫修持。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    西元十四世紀時，尊者藏瓊貢噶<\/span>嘉蒼，將現已式微的舊有幾座寺院<\/span>合併，命名為康果洛寺，藏音為“噶丹<\/span>桑阿曲林”(兜率密咒<\/span>法洲)。而後數百年間，另有兩位尊者特別修建寺院<\/span>，分別是：第七世班禪<\/span>大師滇貝<\/span>尼瑪<\/span>，由他擴建了康果洛寺；以及出生<\/span>在此地的第三世果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>——卻傑堪欽<\/span>阿旺<\/span>巴殿，於卸任理塘<\/span>大寺住持<\/span>之位後，回到故鄉果洛，修復康果洛寺，常駐寺中，於閉關中度過晚年。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    第四世果碩<\/span>仁披切——卻傑堪欽<\/span>洛桑<\/span>蔣貝，和近代漢藏兩地許多知名大師、仁波切<\/span>，都曾經來訪或駐錫此地，留下眾多記錄和珍貴文物。果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的轉世系統承續原有傳統，歷代皆是康果洛寺的寺主。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    康果洛寺廚房<\/h3>
    我到達康果洛的時候正逢康果洛區的村民“耍壩子”，熱鬧非常，但可惜的是已經接近尾聲，第二天就即將結束，所以大人們都在帳篷中休息聊天，而精力旺盛的小札巴們依然在附近遊戲<\/span>玩耍。我被直接帶到了廚房，廚房這邊和壩子裏的帳篷不同，是有木板建成的木板房，由於新寺院<\/span>建設需要僧眾的幫助，年長一些的僧人幾乎都住在這些木板房裏，後來聽一位僧人和我聊起，他們住這個房子已經三年了，等明年夏天新寺院<\/span>建好之後就搬過去。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    廚房裏有兩個爐灶，此時的康果洛已經能感到微寒了，所以進入廚房之後感到格外舒適，燈光很暗，但昏黃卻正好渲染了那種暖意，給人以一種家的感覺，一掃我這些天在途中的不安全感。廚房有專門的廚師，大概六七十歲的一位普通藏民，我剛坐定，他就拿來了飯菜，這讓我很不好意思，尤其是邊上的僧人有時還搭把手，讓我這個初來乍到的俗人頗有些誠惶誠恐。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    飯菜非常的好吃，是我上個月離家之後吃到的最好吃的食物，後來才知道是寺院<\/span>單獨外聘了一個廚師在耍壩子期間做菜。但其實寺院<\/span>的廚師做得也很好吃，這是在外聘的廚師走了之後感覺到的。總之，這邊的飯菜讓我感到很滿足，那是一種回家的感覺。<\/div>
    飯後我就被送往一個民居，從他家門牌上可以看出他家是民居接待點。這家人有兩個孩子，一男一女，姐姐在省裏讀大學，弟弟在縣裏讀初中，漢語都很不錯。室內的裝修非常精美，牆上被一張張木質的藏族繪畫鋪滿，雕樑畫棟，讓人眼前一亮。阿媽一直在弄爐灶，我陪他們一起看照片，是頭幾天耍壩子的時候他們自己拍的，雖然還是有些客人的拘謹，但那個環境的確讓我放鬆了很多。過一會兒，睡意襲來，就準備休息了，睡房也是一樣精美，坐了40多小時的大巴之後，不知是疲勞還是聖地<\/span>的加持<\/span>，那晚睡的特別香。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    在建的新寺院<\/h3>
    第二天一早就被接往了壩子，在帳篷裏坐了一會兒之後，僧人將我帶到了在建的新寺院<\/span>。此次來訪，一則拜訪師父的寺院<\/span>，二則為在臺灣的各位師兄們帶去一些寺廟近況的照片。還沒進入寺院<\/span>就看到門口有很多當地小孩兒，大殿裏面似乎很喧嘩，都是孩童的吵鬧聲。我還沒來得及問，就已經轉到了大門，看到在殿內靠近大門的地方圍坐了一群小孩兒，中間用一塊板材當做黑板，僧人正在教授藏文。說是黑板，其實一點都不黑，就是裝修時常見的那種木板，淺色的，上面的字是用粉紅色粉筆寫的，不注意看，上面的字其實看不清。在二層的走道上是藏語“大班”，學生的年紀看上去大一些，大致都是中學以上的，大班的教育略好一些，是名副其實的黑板。聽僧人說，現在的學校也教藏文，但是水準都一般，學生們學不到什麼，因此寺院<\/span>就在放假的時候為他們補習藏文。傳統上藏文化的傳承依賴於寺院<\/span>教育，時至今日，這樣的狀況在我看來也並沒有得到根本改變。歷代的高僧大德留下了很多文筆精湛的作品，後世的僧人一代代從閱讀這些作品中積澱下了深厚的文學修養，所以在文法教育方面，寺院<\/span>通常比一般的學校好得多。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    新寺大殿<\/h3><\/div>
    繞過門口的學童們，我就走入了大殿。寺院<\/span>為傳統木質結構，大殿由二十幾根柱子撐起，而每根柱子就是一根完整的實木，藏族的工匠用自己靈巧的雙手在上面刻上精美的圖案，莊嚴三寶<\/span>，供養<\/span>諸天。此時的大殿，地板還未完全鋪好，依舊是原木的淺色。殿內的主色調是紅色，在紅色調的映襯下，原色的地板也顯現出一種淡淡的紅色。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    殿內主供比丘<\/span>相釋迦<\/span>摩尼佛，高8米。左側似乎是覺沃佛，右側應該是一尊稍小的釋迦牟尼<\/span>佛像和藥師佛<\/span>像。聽說還會有一尊宗喀巴<\/span>大師像和綠度母<\/span>像會放進來，目前還在成都製作。右側稍小的釋迦牟尼<\/span>佛前方安放著寺院<\/span>護法<\/span>像——騎羊護法<\/span>，聽說才送過來沒多久。大殿正中釋迦牟尼<\/span>佛前方放置著果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的法座，供奉有果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的法相。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    第五世果碩仁波切<\/h3>
    這一世，也就是第五世果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>，於西元一九四八年降生于朵康理塘<\/span>的木拉地區。四歲時，由嘉瓦<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的經師達札仁波切<\/span>認證為前世果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的轉世，並於翌年在果碩<\/span>拉章坐床。十歲時，遠赴拉薩色拉寺<\/span>學習經教，兩年後前往聖地<\/span>。仁波切<\/span>於三十一歲時考取拉然巴<\/span>格西<\/span>（顯宗<\/span>最高學位）。此後，仁波切<\/span>進入吉祥下密院<\/span>學習密續<\/span>教授，並獲得阿然巴<\/span>格西<\/span>學位（密宗<\/span>最高學位）。一九八五年，果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>由宗座任命為吉祥下密院<\/span>喇嘛<\/span>翁則，繼而擔任堪布<\/span>（主持）職位，成為自從密院<\/span>創立近六百年以來最年輕的住持<\/span>之一。下密院<\/span>任期屆滿後，由聖座委任為色拉寺<\/span>昧札倉<\/span>堪布<\/span>（住持<\/span>）。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    護法殿<\/h3>
    走出大殿，附近就是正在修建中的護法<\/span>殿，由於還在修建，所以護法<\/span>像暫時還沒安奉其中，但聽說中央會主供寺院<\/span>護法<\/span>——騎羊護法<\/span>。兩側將會安奉吉祥天母<\/span>和三士道<\/span>護法<\/span>（即地獄主，毗沙<\/span>門天，大黑天<\/span>）。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    寺院<\/span>內部氣溫還是比較低，抵禦不了寒風，拍了一些照片就匆匆回到壩子。接下來的時光依舊是吃飯拍照，晚上才回到那戶居民家，身上似乎出現了一些過敏症狀，難道是我的障礙現前？<\/div>
    因為過敏，一夜輾轉難眠，到了天濛濛亮才又昏睡過去。醒來的時候已是八點過了，早飯過後不久，僧人便來接我去康果洛舊寺。路上才知道，原來早先已經有一位僧人來過，但我當時還沒起床，真是很慚愧。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    康果洛舊寺<\/h3>
    新舊兩個寺院<\/span>邊上是一條河，最近看上去水量並不大，但到了雨季卻會氾濫。康果洛舊寺在新寺的下游，當地人稱之為“下面那個廟子”。剛開始問我是不是要下去的時候，我總以為是問我是不是要回縣城（康果洛海拔3600米左右，縣城只有兩千多），後來才反應過來是說去舊寺院<\/span>。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    從新寺院<\/span>到舊寺院<\/span>開車估摸需要十幾分鐘，舊寺院<\/span>坐落於一座山上，山底有些民居，駛過一段盤山公路後看到一行白塔，隱約記得一個物體上寫有中英藏文的“歡迎來到郭沙寺”，應該是頭些年仁波切<\/span>帶著海內外弟子來到時就寫上的。塔的旁邊是一棵長壽樹（堪布<\/span>這樣說，具體漢語學名叫什麼不是很清楚），長得頗像女貞樹，但又不是。看到這些，也就是到了康果洛舊寺了。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    車停穩之後，帶我來的僧人開始找堪布<\/span>（大約等同於漢地寺院<\/span>“住持<\/span>”的概念），不巧的是，堪布<\/span>一早去縣城了，所以他帶我進入寺院<\/span>參拜護法<\/span>殿之後，我們就匆匆下山了。寺院<\/span>的鑰匙在堪布<\/span>那邊，堪布<\/span>不在也就沒法進。這讓我有些挫敗感，因為明天就要走了，看不到舊寺院<\/span>也是很遺憾的事情。下山之後我開始聯繫堪布<\/span>，最後說定他回來的時候接我上去。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    康果洛寺堪布<\/h3>
    在上文中曾寫到，因為新寺院<\/span>建設，大多數成年的僧人都住在新寺院<\/span>工地邊上的木板房裏，小札巴們主要在舊寺周圍居住，而日常的上殿教學卻都還是在舊寺進行，大約有八十人。寺院<\/span>堪布<\/span>承擔了教學主要任務，因此也住在舊寺。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    等到下午六點，堪布<\/span>來了，我上車之後直接到了舊寺。下車時，邊上的小札巴們都很好奇地看著我，弄得我還有點尷尬，然後跟隨堪布<\/span>到了他的僧舍。僧舍就在舊寺的大門對面，看上去已經有些年頭，或者說是有些破敗。和這邊的民居一樣，僧舍一層主要放置雜物，樓房一共有三層，第三層類似一個閣樓，外面有一個平臺。在堪布<\/span>妥當之後，他邀我到後面的山坡去坐一坐。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    後面的山，據堪布<\/span>說是一座神山，掛滿了經幡。上山時正是落日時分，斜陽今暉佈滿草坪，將它暈染上了一層暖色。面前的康果洛寺靜謐地安坐在夕陽裏，周圍的僧舍陣陣炊煙，時間的流動此時似乎停滯，六百年的光陰，亙古未變。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    我很好奇堪布<\/span>的學習經歷，便聊了起來。堪布<\/span>是本地人，早年赴色拉寺<\/span>學習，之後考取了格西<\/span>學位，繼而又進入下密院<\/span>學習，在拿到學位之後就回鄉了。現在寺院<\/span>有十幾人是從他鄉回來的，其中格西<\/span>有幾位，都承擔著教學工作。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    從山坡上可以看到閣樓平臺上小札巴正在做飯，南方的天空湧過來一陣烏雲，一會兒可能要下雨了。氣溫稍涼之後我們就回到了僧舍，堪布<\/span>房間不大，鋪上兩個地鋪之後幾乎沒什麼地方了。房間門口還有一個小空間，那裏住了三個札巴，窗上的玻璃還破了一個口，條件非常艱苦。我在山下已經吃過晚飯，堪布<\/span>又招呼我吃了一些，這一頓是小札巴們做的，我覺得像買來的，呵呵，很好吃。後來和一個札巴聊起才知道，藏人一天要吃五頓飯，除了我們的三餐，還會加一頓早午餐和下午茶，所以他們到內地總是覺得吃不飽，呵呵。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    準備休息之前，一位札巴領我去外面方便<\/span>，路上聊了一些。他是堪布<\/span>的侄子，他家有四個孩子，他是老大，93年生。一路上我們說了不少。進房間時堪布<\/span>已經在念經，念完之後就休息了，那時才九點，我也只好硬著頭皮睡下了。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    窗外才亮起一點微光，我在迷迷糊糊中就已經聽到了堪布<\/span>念誦的聲音。起床的時候好像嚇到了堪布<\/span>，堪布<\/span>用被子披在身上，從上到下只露出臉，問候了我一句之後堪布<\/span>也停止了打坐。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    堪布<\/span>決定今天的早餐是炒飯，這當然是一個照顧我的決定，很不好意思，通常他們都會吃糌粑<\/span>。小札巴們開始生火，我看到一個札巴在打雞蛋，就上去幫幫手。我不知道藏地其他地方打蛋是如何的，在這裏的民居以及今天看到的小札巴，他們打蛋都是用一支筷子緩慢攪動雞蛋，好像都要攪動很久，我性子急，另外找了一支筷子就很猛地拌了起來，小札巴一直用詫異的眼神看著我。<\/div>
    早飯過後，堪布<\/span>帶著札巴們先去了大殿收拾，因為墊子什麼的都是剛從壩子裏搬回來的，他讓我在這邊坐一會兒，等會兒再過去。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    和僧人的談話<\/h3>
    我一個人坐在房間，那一層一個人都沒有。不一會兒就上來了一位僧人，是昨天和堪布<\/span>一起從縣城裏來的時候開車的那個。他坐了下來，先瞭解了一下我的基本情況，和堪布<\/span>一樣，他也問我在這邊要待過久，我說我明天就回縣城了。之後，他便慢慢開始對我談了很多話，以下只是回憶中的一個大概印象，因為時間的原因記不真切了！<\/div>
    他：你有沒有去新的寺院<\/span>看看？<\/div>
    我：去了。<\/div>
    他：感覺怎麼樣？<\/div>
    我：很精美。<\/div>
    他：是。但是的確算不上大的寺院<\/span>，還很小。<\/div>
    我：是這樣。規模上的確算不上大的寺院<\/span>。<\/div>
    他：嗯，這慢慢來。但我覺得寺院<\/span>最重要的應不是建築，而是文化。不光是我這樣想，仁波切<\/span>，尊者也曾這樣說過。文化除了佛法，其他方面，像藏語，漢語這些也是需要的。<\/div>
    我不住點頭。<\/div>
    他：你看，像現在寺院<\/span>的小札巴們，藏語肯定是沒問題了，我們在教。但出了這個西俄洛村，翻過這座山呢？還是需要漢語。仁波切<\/span>也特地交代過，希望能培養出幾個藏漢翻譯，也有幾個仁波切<\/span>的弟子表示有意願過來教漢語，但是也還沒動靜。我們這邊請了一些縣裏面的人來教，但是都不行，學的都是雅江縣城的話。水準好的老師，沒有錢人家又不願意過來。如果你下次有時間能來的話，能待上一個月，教教小札巴們漢語是很好的。<\/div>
    我表示很願意明年在這邊待一個月。<\/div>
    他：藏族人經常會問“寺院<\/span>有多少人啊？寺院<\/span>有多大啊？”，如果回答兩三千，他們會說寺院<\/span>很好。其實我覺得不是這樣的，是應該看看有多少人有文化，有文化的才是真的好。我當時回來的時候仁波切<\/span>說，這個寺院<\/span>建好了算你的（功勞），建得不好也算你的。我說過，這邊文化普遍不行，寺院<\/span>也很困難，難度可能很大。仁波切<\/span>很清楚藏地的寺院<\/span>現在的發展，他看了很多資料，他對我說了色須寺。色須寺剛開始就一個活佛<\/span>，兩個格西<\/span>，還有兩個普通僧人。但是那位活佛<\/span>當時制定了非常明確的目標，五年的時間就發展出了不少人（當時給我說了一個數，大概兩三百吧，我記不清了），而且僧人們的文化都特別好，考格西<\/span>學位辯經時他們都表現得很出色。色須寺的人並不是最多的，但文化可以說是甘孜州寺院<\/span>中最好的之一。這一次去理塘<\/span>參加辯經大會，一年前的時候，那邊的小札巴的漢語沒有我們這邊好的，但是就一年的時間，就已經超過了我們。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    我正想提出，為何不送一些札巴去漢地學習之後再回來。他就開始對我說：也有一些小的提出希望能夠去漢地讀書，學好漢語之後回到寺院<\/span>。但是我擔心啊，一個月兩個月，一年兩年，我擔心他們會退心。所以還是希望能有人進來，半個月一個月兩個月，如果能有幾個人的話，那一年也有很長時間有人教漢語。  <\/div>
     <\/div>
    我開始體會到其中的困難和老一輩對年少的悲心<\/span>。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    他說：如果可以，我最願意的就是回聖地<\/span>，完成我的學業。但是仁波切<\/span>安排下來了，我就要辦好這事。前面那些想法，我不知道對不對，但是我的確是那麼想的，文化一定要好。<\/div>
     <\/div>
    之後堪布<\/span>就回來了，他走了出去和堪布<\/span>在平臺上說話，如果沒感覺錯的話，似乎說的還是關於寺院<\/span>文化建設的話題。說了一陣子後，堪布<\/span>請他帶著我去看看舊寺。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    康果洛舊寺歷史<\/h3>
    康果洛舊寺大致有八百年的歷史，原是郭崗頂上的三個寺院<\/span>，但因為一場大火，三個寺院<\/span>就在山下合併重建為一個寺院<\/span>。格魯<\/span>派創立之後，康果洛寺改宗為格魯<\/span>派，但擴建和修復成現在的規模是歸功於第七世班禪<\/span>和第三世果碩<\/span>仁波切<\/span>的護持。<\/div>
     <\/div>

    舊寺壁畫<\/h3>
    如同其他地方一樣，寺院<\/span>在文革中損失嚴重，進入大殿之後，仍然可以看到大殿周圍的壁畫，是因為當時用泥土覆蓋壁畫，才得以保存至今。我詢問僧人壁畫具體的年代，僧人也說不清。但根據壁畫的內容來看，應該是改宗格魯<\/span>派之後的作品。僧人說，從壁畫中可以可以看出當時的畫風用色與今天有很大不同，現在用色都特別豔麗，但當時的用色往往對比並不是那麼強烈。<\/div>
     <\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    extended written article with photos<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":21309,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[148],"tags":[560,391,934],"class_list":["post-11885","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-event","tag-560","tag-kham-golok","tag-photo"],"yoast_head":"\n\u5eb7\u679c\u6d1b\u5bfa\u671d\u8056 || Kham Golok Monastery Pilgrimage - Jangtse Choje His Eminence Kyabje Gosok Rinpoche Global Website<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Kham Golok Monastery Pilgrimage 2011 \u5eb7\u679c\u6d1b\u5bfa\u671d\u8056\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.gosokrinpoche.com\/bo\/kham-golok-monastery-pilgrimage\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u5eb7\u679c\u6d1b\u5bfa\u671d\u8056 || Kham Golok Monastery Pilgrimage - 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